@madpilot rants

Installing IKEA Filur bins into a kitchen cupboard without drilling holes!

We have two IKEA FILUR bins that we use in our kitchen – one for waste and one for recycling. To stay out of the way, they live in the butler’s pantry. This is a little bit inconvenient though – moving scraps around inevitably means dirty floors.


My wife decided to do a spring clean, and managed to free up a cupboard with the intention of installing cupboard bins. Easy enough. We started looking around, and found them quite small – we’d become accustomed to the good size bins that we already had. Not only that, but new units seemed quite expensive. We weren’t going to spend a lot of money and end up with something worse.

So I decided to build some.

The cupboard have shelf support holes, as most modern kitchens do, so I set myself a constraint: No drilling holes into the existing cupboards. This would allow us to restore the shelves if the bin-in-a-cupboard thing didn’t work, or we decided to move them to another cupboard, or we decided to move house, or some other reason that forced us to remove them.

The first step was the make sure the bins would both physically fit in the cupboard – and they did. By placing them sideways (Which actually made a lot of sense in this case) they fit with just enough space around them. This also allowed us to test a MVP – would having the bins in the cupboard work for us? After a week, we didn’t hate it, so on to the next step.

Time to jump in to Fusion 360, and have a bit of a play around with a few ideas and some dimensions.

My first thought was to have attach some drawer runners to two rectangles of wood that ran around the inside of the cupboard, but this seemed overkill, and the dimensions were a little too tight to make it really work. Next, I wondered about 3D printing some brackets that would hold the drawer runners. I jumped on to the Bunnings web site to find some drawer runners, and I found some likely candidates for just $11. The problem was (as always) no accurate design drawings or dimensions.

But for $11 (and Bunnings’ generous returns policy), I was willing to take a punt.

The Drawer runners attached to the shelf

The next problem was how to attach the brackets to the walls of the cupboard. 3D printed plastic nubs probably wasn’t going to cut it – I could see them snapping off in the holes. Next, I thought about embedding some 5mm metal rod, or perhaps removing the plastic off the existing shelf supports. I then did a quick search on the Bunnings website and found these all metal shelf supports with metal lugs that would work perfectly (for a grand total off $2.67!). Off to Bunnings!

One sausage sizzle later, I had the bits I needed.

Now I had the dimensions of the drawer runners and the supports, I whipped up a quick design, and 2 hours later I had printed the first bracket to test for fit. Initially, I was going to rely on brass inserts and screws to secure the runners, but I added a small curve to add a some additional support. This worked out better than expected – the curves would happily hold the runners without the screws (although I still added two screws on the back off the runners to keep them in place when pulling out the bins). When it came to attaching the metal inserts, I thought of using heat like I did with the brass inserts, but it turned out a hammer and friction was enough to hold them in – and the platform that the bins would live in would actually push the runners out, holding the whole thing together.

So over the next 6 hours, I printed the remainder of the brackets.

Two of the printed bracket

Once the were done and installed, I could get final measurements for the shelf. This was where designing it in CAD helped – according to my calculations, it would need to be 420mm, and I was dead on. Initially, I was going to buy some melamine coated MDF, but then I decide to cut the existing shelf (which just so happened to be melamine coated MDF) to size.

Cutting the 500x550mm panel to 420x550mm was easy work, but the internal holes for the bins were a little more challenging as I couldn’t find my jigsaw. I used a multisaw, which in theory should be the same, but was ended up being slower and more difficult to use. As a result, the holes looked like it was cutout by a drunk monkey. Nothing a bit of rasping couldn’t fix. Besides – the bins will cover a multitude of sins. All in all, the result was good enough.


It was at this point, I made a minor mistake in drilling the holes for the runners – they are offset from centre, and I drilled one side on the wrong side, but that was easy enough to fix, just by drilling them on the other side of the centre line.

Putting it together was slightly more challenging, as I needed to screw in the support screws whilst in-situ, and had to do a bit of a contortion act to get them in. But once it was in, it all worked really well. The shelf could have possibly done with 1mm extra cutout, so the run was a little smoother, but it’s totally fine as is.

The bins installed on the drawer

The other thing I would change it to make the non-door side thinner, so the there wasn’t such a massive gap between the cupboard wall and the runner – the gap on he door side is needed to give clearance from the hinges, and I went for symmetry, but it does look a little odd. It would have made the print time much less too. Oh well – next time!

So for a grand total of $13.67 (plus about $3 in plastic), 45 minutes off design time, and 8 hours of print time, our bins now live in a cupboard!

Download the design on Thingiverse.

A case and POE for the OrangePI

Technically, the OrangePI Zero supports a type of Power of Ethernet, but this makes it compliant.

..and uses a cheat – you can buy POE splitters off Aliexpress – this hack removes the Ethernet port off the OrangePI, and permanently attaches the splitter. I also 3D printed a case for it, which is the interesting part, as I experiment with post production.

I use an OrangePi as a server for my Flic bluetooth buttons. I use POE to power it, so I don’t need to bother with plug packs, however, it all looks a little untidy (why do Pi clone manufacturers always put the power plug on the front!?).

I’ve also been meaning to experiment with sanding and spray painting 3D prints, so I thought I’d kill two birds with one stone.

Adding the POE splitter to the OrangePi

  1. Desolder the Ethernet socket from the OrangePI. I used a desoldering needle.
  2. Desolder the ethernet and power cable from the POE splitter
  3. Use ethernet cable to join to the two Ethernet pads. Make sure you maintain the twists between pairs. I also soldered two pin headers into the support holes either side of the Ethernet sockets, to give some physical support.

Printing the Case

  1. You can download the models from Thingiverse
  2. No need for to print supports – 20% infill is fine. Once printed, you need to cut off the board support clips at the top of the pylons – they don’t work. Drill two 2.5mm holes in the two rear pylons.
  3. Insert brass inserts into the corner holes.


FDM 3D printing is quite streaky, and looks… well, like it was 3D printed. I print in PLA, so acetate vapor is out off the question, making good, old fashioned sanding and painting the easiest way to get it looking it good.

A test fit. You can see the streaks.

The first time I tried this I sanded the thing completely smooth, and it took ages. I found other people have had success using automotive primer/filler which fills smaller scratches.

I tried this, but the gaps were too big. I went aggressive, and started with 120grit wet-and-dry sand paper. I added another two coats of primer/filler. Next, I went to town with 400 grit, then 800 grit.

I wanted to see if I could paint a logo in the top, so I did an undercoat of satin silver, placed a sticker over it and then painted a top coat of satin grey.

It looked terrible.

  1. The sticker lifted, so the edges off the logo were blurry.
  2. Satin shows up ALL the gaps, so even after all the sanding, the lines were still visible
  3. I over painted, so there was drips, and it looked thick and gross
  4. The colour wasn’t… great.

The first attempt at the paint job didn’t look great

I re-sanded with 400-grit to get rid of the paint, and polished again with 800-grit. This time I omitted the extra coat of primer/filler, and just applied two LIGHT coats of flat (matt) black paint. This time the result was great!

Matt paint actually fills gaps a little bit, so the result is much better. There are still some visible lines (in the right light), so clearly I need to sand more. Also – I missed some bits on the bottom section. Clearly I still need some practice.

I wouldn’t mind trying the satin finish again, with out being so heavy handed on the pain